Tech Help Q & A

We normally suggest using a high Grade SAE 10W/30 Motor oil along with a ½ pint of a good quality zinc break in oil. After 2 oil changes if you would like to go with a synthetic or blended version then this is O.K. Do an initial oil change after 500 Miles then just every 3000 miles from there. Note on the first oil change your oil will look blacker than normal this is because when we assemble the engine we use a heavy duty Graphite on all Moving parts. Many people will ask how many quarts of oil does my engine hold. We have to tell you that every engine is a little different because we install the oil pan that is Made for the application, many will only take 4 quarts and some as many as 8 quarts. Here is how we want you to do it, on initial oil and filter change, first fill the new oil filter to the top, Then install 3 quarts of oil in the engine, then count how many additional quarts does it take to reach the full mark on the Dipstick, caution do not overfill.

Engine Factory will normally do the break in of the camshaft on our Turnkey engines.  Upon taking your vehicle on the road for the first time stagger the throttle from 30 to 50 MPH several times to get the Piston Rings seated properly. Keep the RPMs under 4000 RPMs for the first 1000 miles.  

Keep them under 5800 RPMs.  The power starts to drop above this anyway in most Street Engines. You will have all the power you’ll ever need below this level anyway. Going beyond this definitely increases your chances of damaging internal Parts.

When filling cooling system, top off Radiator with 50/50 Mixture of Antifreeze and Water with engine cold. After engine is started check coolant Level after engine  reaches 160 F. Top off as necessary. Always use caution around hot coolant, Always use a temperature gauge not an idiot light. After the engine reaches 180 degrees shut it down and let the engine cool down then slowly remove the radiator cap start the engine and top off.

This can be a huge list but one of the most important ones to mention would be the Radiator. Use a brand new Aluminum or 3 to 4 core Radiator to keep your replacement engine cool. Some other items would include Engine and Transmission Mounts, Clutch, Torque converter, Fan, belts, hoses, U-Joints, pulleys, hoses and clamps, fuel lines, sensors etc.  Reference our installation tips list along with and review each tag on the engine. If you don’t feel comfortable to take this on then contact a qualified mechanic. Early model vehicles with drum brakes should be converted to disc brakes when installing a high performance engine. Most serpentine system require using an electric Fan  the Flex lite 180 series puts out 3300 cfm and will keep your engine nice and cool.

GM HEI wiring terminals

Here are the part Numbers you can order from   www.summitracing.com   although most auto parts store will also have them many different brands >>>> be sure to tell the guys the Power lead must be hooked up to the Ignition terminal so that the distributor has 12 volts with the key on and no voltage with the key off. Never hook up to the same wire that powers an electric fan or the automatic choke

Painless Wiring 30809 - Painless Performance HEI Power Pigtails

Compare

HEI Power Pigtail, GM HEI Distributors, Each
Part Number: PRF-30809

Painless Wiring 30813 - Painless Performance HEI Tachometer Lead Pigtails

Compare

Wiring Harness, HEI Tachometer Lead, 6 ft. Length, Each
Part Number: PRF-30813

Chevy Flywheels and starters compatibility

flywheel-starter-compatibility
Flywheel and starter on the left is 153 tooth and the compatible starter has bolt pattern straight across from each other; this flywheel uses a 10.5 inch Clutch.

Flywheel and starter on the right is 168 tooth and the compatible starter has the bolts staggered across from each other; this flywheel uses a 11 inch clutch.

See important technical item below.

The starter bolts are special and also the engine block is special where the starter bolts seat >>> When you get your starter off always look at how the engine block has the starter bolt holes recessed up in the block again the threads in the block should be recessed up in the block about 3/8 of an engine this allows the shoulder that is built on the starter bolts to fit up in that recess precisely that is what gives the bolts the strength and keeps everything in perfect alignment.

 

Chevy flexplate and starter compatibility: both have Balance weights 86-96  when they bolt up be sure weight goes to the front of the engine.

Also, years that have these combos please consider that over the years Chevy engines have been transplanted into just about every combination out there.  A quick way to tell what size flywheel you have is to look closely at starter bolt configuration and compare to my illustrations.

flexplate-starter-compatibility

Flexplate and starter on the left is 153 tooth and the compatible starter has bolt pattern straight across from each other.
- This starter is a DB Electric Brand part Number  SDR0059 you can order direct from Amazon

Flexplate and starter on the right is 168 tooth and the compatible starter has the bolts staggered across from each other.
- This starter is a DB Electric Brand Part Number SDR0031-L buy Direct from Amazon.

See important technical item below:
Camaros
68-83 Camaros had 168 tooth flywheels
84-93 Camaros had 153 tooth flywheels.

Corvettes
67 and earlier Corvettes had 153 tooth flywheels.
68-83 Corvettes had 168 tooth flywheels
84-93 Corvettes had 153 tooth flywheels

If a customer’s torque converter does not bolt up to flexplate then they will need the torque converter that has multiple bolt holes.

The starter bolts are special and also the engine block is special where the starter bolts seat >>> When you get your starter off always look at how the engine block has the starter bolt holes recessed up in the block again the threads in the block should be recessed up in the block about 3/8 of an engine this allows the shoulder that is built on the starter bolts to fit up in that recess precisely that is what gives the bolts the strength and keeps everything in perfect alignment.

On some engines Like Corvettes and Cobras The customer fills his cooling system and thinks his engine is full it is not; that is because the radiator fill neck sits lower than the Thermostat housing, Coolant does not run up hill which means the upper portion of your intake system is not completely full and that is where your Temperature sender sits. I recommend the Moroso upper radiator hose fill Part Number 63730

Now another reason if your engine temperature is higher than normal; If you have installed a late model Serpentine Belt system that is driven by a single belt, You must be aware that those system use reverse turn water pumps. Here is where most people go wrong they put on a fan and fan clutch that is for a standard rotation pump, this means your Fan is now turning the wrong way, easiest way to resolve this issue is to use an electric fan we recommend the Flex lite 180 series they deliver 3300 Cfm’s of air flow and will keep your engine cool.

Very important to follow these instructions:
Distributor and Electric Choke positive terminals must be hooked up to separate 12 volt key controlled (on and off with key )  If you use an electric fan it must be hooked up to a separate circuit otherwise it can burn out the ignition module in the distributor. Here is why if you shut the vehicle off and the fan is still spinning the fan acts like a generator and sends back a voltage spike that instantly  burns out the Ignition Module in the distributor.

Also be sure to have a heavy duty 4 Gauge Ground cable going from the engine block to the vehicle frame otherwise you will constantly be adding water to your battery and your alternator will be spiking voltage at 18 volts.

Most auto parts stores have a simple piece that plugs into your fuse panel and adds 4 separate key controlled circuits that plugs into the accessory circuit.

Small Block Chevy Torque spec’s read carefully

   Bolt size and Location Lube or Sealer Torque to:
7/16 Main Caps (2 bolt) Engine Oil 70 ft-lbs.
7/16 Inner Main Caps (4 bolt) Engine Oil 70 ft-lbs.
7/16 Outer Main Caps (4 bolt) Engine Oil 65 ft-lbs.
3/8 Outer Main Caps (4 bolt) Engine Oil 40 ft-lbs.
3/8 Connecting Rod Engine Oil 45 ft-lbs.
11/32 Connecting Rod Engine Oil 45 ft-lbs.
Cylinder Heads Engine oil (blind hole)
Sealer (water jacket)
65 ft-lbs.
Rocker Studs (screw-in) Engine Oil 50 ft-lbs.
Oil Pump Engine Oil 65 ft-lbs.
Oil Pan Engine Oil 12 ft-lbs.
Cam Sprocket (upper gear) Thread Locker 20 ft-lbs.
Timing Cover Engine Oil 6 ft-lbs.
Intake Manifold (Cast Iron Heads) Non- Hardening Sealer 30 ft-lbs.
Valve Cover Engine Oil 3 ft-lbs.
Exhaust Manifold Anti-Seize Lubricant 25 ft-lbs.
Spark Plugs No Lube or Sealer 20 ft-lbs.
Flexplate (Automatic)
Flywheel (Clutch)
Thread Locker 60 ft-lbs.
Clutch Pressure Plate Thread Locker 35 ft-lbs.
Centerbolt (Harmonic Damper) Engine Oil 60 ft-lbs.
Bellhousing (Transmission to Block) Engine Oil 25 ft-lbs.

SBC Cylinder Head Bolt Tightening Sequence

Ford Torque specs read carefully

Ford 260, 289, 302 (5.0L) Verify These specs they may not be your engine specs check a service manual for your year and model.

Always torque bolts in three equal increments

Bolts or Parts Lube or Sealer Torque to:
Main Caps Engine Oil 70 ft-lbs.
Outer Main Cap Bolts Engine 40 ft-lbs.
Connecting Rod    260, 289, 302
*289HP and Boss 302
Engine Oil 25 ft-lbs.
*45 ft-lbs.
Cylinder Heads Engine oil
(blind hole)
Sealer
(water jacket)
70 ft-lbs.
Rocker Arms Engine Oil 20 ft-lbs.
Oil Pump Engine Oil 25 ft-lbs.
Oil Pan Engine Oil 15 ft-lbs.
Camshaft Thrust Plate Thread Locker 10 ft-lbs.
Cam Bolt
(upper gear)
Thread Locker 40 ft-lbs.
Front Cover Engine Oil 20 ft-lbs.
Intake Manifold
(Cast Iron Heads)
Non- Hardening Sealer 25 ft-lbs.
Valve Cover Engine Oil 10 ft-lbs.
Flexplate (Automatic)
Flywheel (Clutch)
Thread Locker 85 ft-lbs.
Clutch Pressure Plate Thread Locker 25 ft-lbs.
Centerbolt
(Harmonic Damper)
Thread Locker 90 ft-lbs.
Bellhousing
(Transmission to Block)
Engine Oil 25 ft-lbs.

Power steering & AC line kits Available at  www.gottashow.com  Phone: 602-237-4506 

Note: Some kits will require custom AC & PS lines the company above will assist you on these items.

A.C. Compressor: Sandon Compressor accepts R134A Refrigerant.
NOTE COMPRESSOR HAS OIL IN IT

Note: if the fitting on back of our PS pump is not compatible with your PS pressure line, the fittings on back of both PS pumps will interchange, Just switch the fittings they just thread out. Order a new PS pressure line for a 1971 Chevy impala that will work with our pump.

Over the years One question that get asked very often How do I know if I have installed my automatic Trans Torque converter Properly?

Now let me say this We are engine Builders Not Transmission builders But over the Years of building our own Cars we learned the right way and the wrong way about installing torque converters on a freshly Built Transmissions, we have found the following Method has always worked well for us.

The first thing Be sure when you order the Torque Converter tell the trans person what Camshaft  and Horsepower you have. Are you building a cruiser or Hot street machine because this will determine what stall speed you want for the converter, Most cruisers will stay with a 2,000 stall speed, 400 HP around 2,500, 500 HP & Up will go with 2800 Stall Speed  of course if you know your rear end ratio also give that to Transmission shop.

Now when you order your torque converter best to order the converter that has multiple bolt holes where the converter mounts to the engine flexplate, most performance converters normally have the multiple bolt holes.

Ok now when you’re ready to put the converter onto the Trans we always recommend take a look down in the converter and see if you see any trans fluid pour in 1 quart It is best so that it has some lubrication and helps to pick up the pressure faster, now look at the front seal if it looks ok then spread a little of trans fluid on the converter shaft just so the seal has instant lubrication so you don’t burn the seal lips. Now pick up the converter and slide over the trans splined shafts, slowly push into the Transmission and keep rotating the converter you will see it drop back a little that shows it went onto the 1st set of splines now keep turning and pushing back it will then drop back one more time and that means you have dropped back on the second set of splines and have engaged into the Transmission front pump give the converter a spin there should be a nice smooth spin no binding or noise.

Now it is time to mate the Transmission to the Back of your engine, first make sure the Pins that the Transmission line up on don’t have any paint on them, also make sure that the Transmission alignment holes are nice and clean.  Now take a couple of Extra 3 inch long bolts and cut the heads off, just thread them into the back of the trans by hand about 3 full turns this will help you to easily slide the trans onto the back of the engine, now have your trans bolts ready to install thread them in by hand and use a hand ratchet, you will now see that the face of the trans and the block are mated together. Now very important reach under and try to spin the torque converter, If you can that means success you now know the Torque converter is installed in the trans correctly, so now is the time to install your converter to flexplate Bolts, you should have about ¼ of an inch space between converter and flexplate that’s perfect, now pull the converter forward until it lines up flush with the flexplate, now install your torque converter bolts nuts and lock washers and torque up everything, now Ford converter use the same procedure except the ford converter have studs that you have to spin  the converter to line up the holes into the flexplate.  Always be sure you use a new Trans cooler.

Best way to Set Your timing the way racers do

Please follow the directions below.
We do not install a timing pointer but this is the way we want you to set the timing.
- Hook up your timing light
- Pull the Vacuum line off the Distributor
- Now locate the white or yellow line on the timing cover it is t the 2 o’clock position
- Clean off the balancer timing tape
- Find and Mark the Number 36 degree mark on the Balancer
- Now start the vehicle and bring the rpm’s up to 3,000
- The 36 degrees should line up with the white or yellow mark on the timing cover
- - if not slightly loosen the distributor and pull it forward until the 36 degrees lines up with the mark on the timing cover at 3,000 rpms with the vacuum line disconnected.
- - this is the way that racers set up their engines it is the correct way and the timing will be set correctly at all rpms.
- Now snug up the Distributor hold down clamp
- Now hook up the vacuum line and road test.

The reason we do not run a timing pointer is that we have found many of them to be off by 4 Degrees the Marks that we make are 100% accurate.

After setting timing, road test the vehicle, it should accelerate smoothly, you should not have a gas ping, if you do experience a ping then you may have to drop the timing back a few degrees. Many old time mechanics will set the timing on the road by doing what is commonly called power timing, they start out with the distributor slightly loose, just enough that it can be pulled up or pushed back, they accelerate the car, and they keeping advancing the timing until they detect a gas ping and then retard the timing slightly until the ping goes away. Of course be sure you have the proper octane fuel, and that the fuel is not old or stale.

Note pulling the distributor vacuum advance up toward the radiator increases the timing for more power, back to the firewall retards timing. Try experimenting for best power.