Installation Tips and Precautions

Engine Factory turn key engines are designed for easy installation, but, of course, it will depend on your experience and expertise. After reviewing this article you must decide if you have the proper equipment and expertise to successfully install your engine safely, if not, then please consult a professional installer.

Safety Is Number 1 and This is Your Responsibility.

  1. Work area must be well organized, well ventilated, and properly lit.
  2. Start by disconnecting your battery cables and removing battery from your vehicle. This eliminates any possibility of shorting out any wires.
  3. Disconnect fuel lines as necessary and immediately cap off. A well known method is to insert a bolt in the rubber fuel line and install a mini clamp to seal off leaking fuel. Use extra caution on fuel injected systems, the pressure can be 10 times the pressure of a carbureted system. Never use a drop light when working near gasoline or fumes, if the drop light falls and the bulb breaks the glowing filament can ignite the gas or fumes causing and instant fire.
  4. Never disconnect any air condition lines, they have high pressure refrigerant which can cause severe burns or eye damage. If air condition compressor must be removed leave lines on compressor, unbolt with the lines attached and tie compressor up out of the way with a piece of rope to the inside fender.
  5. Remove hood being careful with hood springs and hinges, many fingers have been lost here. Before loosening hinge bolts scribe their location for easier hood alignment when reinstalling hood.
  6. Tag any wires and vacuum lines for proper location on reassembly.
  7. Keep all tools clean, and use proper size sockets.
  8. Use small plastic bags and a magic marker to properly identify bolts that you take off so they can be installed correctly in the proper location upon reassembly.
  9. Any parts removed should be inspected for wear or flaws, keep a list of new parts to be ordered.
  10. When it is time to jack up your vehicle to disconnect under the vehicle you will need the following—a jack that has the proper capacity to lift the vehicle, jack stands that have the proper capacity to support the vehicle —- never go under a vehicle that is only held up by a jack. The best way is to start out on level solid ground, cement is best. Lift the vehicle with the jack at the proper lifting points, then properly set the jack stand and lower the vehicle on to stand. Once vehicle is safely lifted and secured then use a creeper to go under it. You will need safety glasses because anything you disconnect under vehicle will have a lot of rust and road dirt on it.
  11. Many mechanics will try to remove the engine and transmission as an assembly, this is usually a judgment call, but if possible it is easier to to line up the trans an engine when it is out of the chassis as an assembly, but you must be sure that the hoist you are using is capable of the combined weight of engine and transmission assembly. If you choose to leave the transmission in the chassis, then you must properly support it before removing engine. Be sure to use common sense at this point you will be lifting a lot of weight, never work under an engine that is up in the air, lower it first, always think of it this way, if it slips or falls where will you be. Always stay clear.

Items that should be replaced during installation.

  1. Radiator — many times a radiator looks o.k. but the truth of the matter is the tiny little tubes that the coolant flows through can be partially restricted, and can cause overheating and engine damage. You have made a considerable investment in a turn key engine protect it. — replace the radiator we recommend a 4 row heavy duty radiator.
  2. Hoses and clamps — hoses can collapse, leak, or suck air into system, replace all hoses. Caution lower radiator hose must contain a coil spring inside it or it can collapse at highway speed and starve block for coolant.
  3. Fan shroud helps the fan pull cool air through the radiator, check for cracks or missing pieces.
  4. Radiator cap — most modern engines require a 14 lb. Cap. For every lb. Of pressure that you raise your cooling system you raise your boiling point 2 degrees. Example normal boiling point is 212 degrees with a 14 lb. Cap your boiling point now becomes 240 degrees.
  5. Fan and or fan clutch — this is important for proper cooling. An easy way to check to see if the fan is pulling the proper amount of air through the radiator, place a piece of newspaper on the front of the radiator if the fan is working properly it will pull the newspaper tightly against the radiator.
  6. Replace fan belts and check pulleys for cracks or damage, a broken $5.00 belt could waste a $5,000 engine.
  7. Motor mounts, a broken or sagged mount can cause serious vibrations.
  8. Check exhaust system for any rusted out parts.
  9. Check clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out and pilot bearing for wear.
  10. Check automatic trans for leaks, broken mounts, or leaky modulator.
  11. Driveshaft— check universal joints for wear.
  12. Look over any special sensors or switches, replace as necessary.
  13. Engines that exceed stock horsepower will require safety modifications, and are intended for off road use.
  14. Some engines may require a vacuum booster to safely operate power brakes, installing mechanic can determine this with a simple vacuum test.
  15. Engine Factory does a fuel pressure test on any engine that we include a fuel system, we make and retain a copy of the video tape of the complete test. Sometimes during installation a installing mechanic can create a fuel leak by moving a line to install a bracket etc., therefore it is the owners and installing mechanics responsibility that upon immediate start up of engine to check for any kind of fuel leak.